The hot water and cabin heat are designed to be flexible and configurable, but it’s leading to some complexity, which we’ll need to streamline for every day use.
The domestic hot water heater runs on 120v shore power or the generator. But, it also has a heat exchanger connected to the main engine, so any time we drive it will heat up. This is a pretty standard configuration and it’s already pretty versatile and flexible.
The hydronic system is more complex. It’s core functionality is a diesel boiler that runs on the 12v system. This heats a fluid (basically antifreeze) which is pumped to five locations around the boat. Each location has a heater core (that looks like a radiator with a fan), which is controlled by a local thermostat and fan speed switch. So, each zone has it’s own heat and the whole thing can run on the batteries. The hydronic system also has a heat exchanger connected to the main engine, so the boiler can be heated while under way without having to fire it up.
So, when we’re under way, we’ll have hot water, cabin heat, and pilothouse window defrost for “free” by capturing waste engine heat.
Now, the hydronic system also has a fresh water heat exchanger, connected to the domestic hot water loop in line with the domestic hot water heater. This is designed to be an “instant on” system that delivers hot water on demand (as long as the boiler is hot). It also adds some complications. First, when the fresh water heater is off (say we’ve been at anchor for 12 hours), the hydronic system will heat water in-line and then dump it into the domestic hot water heater (11 gallons) – which will be room temperature at that point – cooling it before it reaches the faucet. The same is true the opposite way. If it’s summer and the water in the domestic tank is hot, while the hydronic boiler is off, we’d have the opposite problem (though the hydronic tank is smaller).
Dave’s solution to this is to install a couple of in-line solenoids on the fresh water hot loop. If the domestic heater (120v) does not have power, the solenoid will close and the instant hot water from the hydronic tank will bypass it. This will be closed by default. There will be a similar solenoid on the hydronic fresh water loop which will stay open by default. Each of these can be controlled by a switch in the pilot house. The only wrinkle in this system is if the fresh water in the domestic hot water heater is hot because the engine has been on, the solenoid will be closed and we’ll need to open it manually using a switch (no sense in burning diesel if we already have 11 gallons of hot water sitting in the tank). Also, when in their non-default mode, the solenoids will draw a small amount of power.
Finally, the hydronic system also has two 1500W electric heater coils, so you can heat the water in the boiler without burning diesel. But, given these draw about 15 amps each, they’re really only an option for when we’re on 50-amp shore power or running the generator.
Oh, the hydronic system also has a “summer mode” where you can use it only as an instant on water heater. You simply close the valves on the ship-wide anti-freeze system so the boiler only heats water internally.
So, on the one hand, we’re very pleased with the options for heating the boat and unlimited hot water – in particular, the option to use engine heat, diesel, 12v power, or AC power. (We don’t want to waste any heat generated by the boat if we can redirect it to heating the cabins or the hot water.) On the other, there are so many ways to use it it will be hard to optimize. I’m working on a diagram and some simple if/then scenarios.
We got the proof-of-concept blinds installed. It’s a really tight fit, up under the valence, but we made it work. This is a huge load off my mind, since the blinds were turning into a major project. We ordered the rest of them this morning and they won’t be here until September. So, we got some temporary blinds for privacy and blocking the sun for a few weeks.
The blinds wound up being pretty expensive. But, we are getting higher-end Levolor blinds and I think it will be worth it. They are cordless cell shades with both light filtering and blackout sections. Cordless means they go up and down with a simple pull. The cell shades act as insulation, keeping the drafts out, and with two modes, we can either have privacy with natural light or complete dark for when we’re watching a movie or trying to sleep up north, when the sun sets at 11 pm in the summer. They have a 10 year warranty and I hope they’re reliable, because I don’t relish the thought of trying to get them back out of there.
Very happy with the test install. Hope the rest go as smoothly. With 19 separate blinds, most with slightly different measurements, it’s an error-prone process. I’ll be surprised if they all fit.
We took delivery of our dinghy on Friday. I have been almost as excited by the dinghy as by the big boat. Our old dinghy was fine, but with an electric motor and a cruising speed of 3 kts, it was mostly ship-to-shore. Our new dinghy is the 10.5 AB “Sport” package from Guyer Boatworks. It’s a hypalon tube with aluminum bottom and concealed bilge (there’s a floor over the bilge so it’s a flat bottom and the water doesn’t pool around your feet – unless it gets really full). It has a stainless framed folding seat and helm, a 20 hp, fuel-injected outboard, power start and trim, and integrated 6-gallon fuel tank. It also has a small garmin chartplotter and depth sounder. For all it’s capabilities, it’s very minimalist and only weighs around 400 lbs.
I took it out into the bay and with two adults aboard it got to 25kts. At cruising speed (12 kts?) I expect we’ll have a range of around 30 miles, making this a game-changer for exploring and running errands. This is the “slow boat, fast dinghy” strategy and I’m super excited to try it out.
We got it athwartship, which gives us more room to use the upper deck, though we will need to find a place to store the rails.
Dave is getting ready to install the hydronic heat. The main unit will go on the port side underneath the galley. I like it there so the exhaust will vent to port (since we’re generally a starboard-tie boat) and away from the dock.
Hydronic works by heating fluid and pumping it around the boat to a set of exchangers (that look tiny radiators and fans). Each core is controlled by it’s own thermostat, so we’ll have five independently-heated zones on the boat. The system also has heat exchangers for the engine (so engine heat provides cabin heat) and the fresh water (so, if the heat is on we also have hot water – the normal hot water heater only runs off shore power or the generator). The hydronic will also provide heated defrost for the pilot house windows.
Very excited to see the system installed!
Took a bunch more random pictures of things that I didn’t recognize or wanted to remember for other reasons….
Our last boat had manual jabsco pump toilets. They did the job and were easy to repair and service, but it always felt a bit like using an outhouse. The new toilets are fresh-water, powered flush. The clicking sound is air being purged since I had just pressurized the system. So civilized!
It’s fun and interesting learning about the new boat. There are many small things I would have done differently, if I had known to ask about them. But, they’re so minor that it’s tough to worry about them. For example, the “courtesy lights” are the small LEDs at foot level all around the exterior of the boat. These can only be turned on and off all together from a single breaker on the main electrical panel. I’d have preferred to control them by zones (e.g. cockpit, bow, flybridge) using wall switches. But, at this point it’s not something I care enough about to change. Some stuff I am changing – the inverter/charger control is in a weird spot so I’m moving it up next to the solar charge controller panel. I suspect I’m going to change the layout of the helm electronics at some point, but without cruising for a while it’s hard to tell what I might want.
So far, we’ve pulled the cabinet out and we have the new anchor aboard. The other day, I flushed the fresh water system and tested all of the pumps – along with the hot water heater. It takes about 30 minutes to fill the tank from empty using dock water. I also programmed the stereo. I’ve spent hours crawling around opening every hatch and identifying every piece of equipment.
There’s always weird stuff. The fresh water tank gauge reads 1/4 full when it’s empty (our last boat was like this) and for the life of me I can’t figure out which fuel tank the generator pulls from. All of this is normal boat stuff, but it’s tough to tell what I should fix now (as it will irritate me if I don’t) and what I should just get used to.
As much fun as it is monkeying around with everything, we really want to take our first shakedown cruise. Most of the work is gated behind hydronic installation, which will start on Mon, 6-Jul and last for a few weeks. This will require pulling everything apart, so there’s no point in starting some other projects. We’re hoping to take our first cruise the last week of July, but it’s too early to tell.
We also have power, now. Though, the solar panels are putting out 20 amps for a good portion of the day, so it wasn’t super critical. Dave rigged up a 30/120 – to – 50/240 smart plug adaptor cable, which will be helpful for the majority of slips in the region that only have 30-amp. That allowed me to power up the water maker and water heater, which won’t run off the inverter.
Been getting a lot of small things done – generally learning about the boat. Managed to get a video of some of the parts I missed in the last one.
New boats don’t come fully equipped – for various reason. Some things make sense, like end-to-end system integration and testing – where you really need to be in the water. Others are weird, like hydronic heat (which would be vastly easier to install during construction). Whenever I see something like this, I suspect weird incentives somewhere in the chain. For example, maybe hydronic heat systems are subject to some kind of tariff that makes it cost prohibitive to install at the ship yard in China. Regardless, we spent a couple hours working with Dave to plan things out, here’s the high-level plan.
- Install 4-zone hydronic heat and add main engine heat exchanger
- Install propane system
- Remove cabinet in salon to make room for couch
- Install dinghy and chocks. Balance for davit. Add canvas to dinghy.
- Install sconce lights in salon
- Install engine room fire suppression system
- Install splash tiles behind galley stove
- Move inverter/charger remote panel above helm station next to solar charge controller panel
- Add reading lights to bunks in kids’ rooms
- Install BBQ and plumb propane
- Add switch for courtesy lights (currently controlled from main panel)
- Install swim step ladder
- Install captain’s chair
- Install cell shades on all windows
- Add graphics / lettering
- Add small multi-function displays to helms (TBD – depth, etc.)
- Flush fresh water system
- System Integration: end-to-end test-and-fix
- End-to-end detail
Note, that there’s still a bunch of other stuff to do that’s not covered here. Things like bring linen, cups, dishes, etc., apply tabs, register for warranties… We’ll cover those in between the cracks in the other work.
No engine room footage… and I get a few technical details and terminology wrong. Not sure why I’m so out of breath – excitement? But, it gives a good overview of the boat.